Bodegas Cándido Hernández Pío: two appelations, three brands and great wines from the mythical Canary Islands

By Marina La Forgia

The wines from Bodegas Cándido Hernández Pío have an identity that we can define as traditional and modern at the same time. It is a winery with history in one of the oldest wine-making regions that are known and with an exceptional terroir, the Canary Islands. The roots of the vines that compose these wines grow in volcanic soil, which offers unique characteristics to the fruits. In addition, a modern commercial vision is approaching the history of centennial elaboration trying to seduce a current public avid of different sensations. Consumers that count on a demanding palate and with many wines in the market. For this, nothing better than elaborate wines of a very local character, extracting to the maximum the characteristics of the Canarian soil. The results are in sight (in the e nose and the palate as well), with wines of great quality and maximum expression. Their white wines have captivated me for being very fresh, intense and with very particular notes. And of its reds, I emphasize the unique and spiced characteristics of its autochthonous varieties, like Listan or the Negramoll.

The wines of Tenerife in general, and those of Cándido Hernández Pío in particular, are a hidden treasure to unveil. Little or nothing is known about the Canarian wines in these Canadian lands and I dare say in many other regions of the world. Which I hope will change, giving diffusion and allowing us to discover different wines from less conventional wine regions.

That been said, here I share my tasting notes on the wines I had the chance to taste. Two different appelations: DO Tacoronte Acentejo and DO Güimar Valley, a magnificent variety that has left me an overall idea of the characteristics of this unique terroir in the world. Waiting to be seen and enjoyed in Quebec soon!
Calius Verdello Blanco Seco
DO Valle de Güimar
A line of wines with an elegant design label, with simple yet forceful strokes. This is how I found this white wine. Simple, but blunt and elegant. This autochthonous variety of characteristics similar to its almost homonymous Verdelho or Verdejo, offers us the freshness of the grapes of fast ripening. That youth is manifested in its very delicate floral and fruit notes. In the mouth, it is a light wine, but with a subtle acidity that makes it enveloping and refreshing. An excellent wine to enjoy as an aperitif or with some oysters or seafood in lemon juice. It knows how to respond to these expectations of pairing, as much as a sparkling wine ...

Calius Listan Blanco Seco
DO Valle de Güimar
An indigenous grape of unique characteristics, Listan, makes this wine a must-see for Candido Hernandez Pio's wine line. It is another of his unique white wines, to my humble opinion. Its grapes are cultivated at 1200 meters altitude, which added to the mineral and volcanic character of its soils offers us a white wine that is fresh and refreshing. In the nose, it is a wine with delicate notes of citrus fruits. And in the mouth, it has seduced me its greasiness, its minerality and its fruit character. A true delight, a wine of marked personality, to enjoy fresh with fish dishes based on pink meats such as trout or salmon.

Viña Riquelas Gual
DO Tacoronte Acentejo
The Gual is another interesting Canarian variety to be discovered. We are here no longer in front of a wine of purely refreshing characteristics, but in front of a white with other peculiarities, more unctuous and more mature fruits. It also has very nice spicy notes like cinnamon and clove, especially in the nose. In the mouth, these notes of ripe white fruit are very pleasant and elegant.
A white wine to accompany dishes such as stuffed pasta and cream based sauces, or poultry meats.

Balcón Canario tinto 2015
DO Tacoronte Acentejo
With vineyards located on parcels with different heights (from 150 to 800 meters), and prepared as a blend with the best native varieties, such as Listan negro, Negramoll and Tintilla, this is a wine that has not gone unnoticed to my palate.
In the nose it is very enveloping, with very intense aromas of red fruits intermixed with spicy notes very notorious as pepper and cinnamon. In the mouth, its body is unctuous, taste even the spicy characteristics and has a wide end. A blend of grapes, and characteristics of geographical location (height) well achieved and with a very specific and very aromatic aromatic particularity. Perfectly accompanies juicy red meats.
Considered the "wine emblem" for the winery, the Balcón Canario is a well-done red wine and the one that receives the most awards and acceptance from the local and international public.

Viña Riquelas Negramoll
DO Tacoronte Acentejo
Another unique red wine. Elaborated in varietal with the local grape Negramoll, it is a fresh and young wine with all the intensity of the fruit, to which are added a very pleasant mineral and spicy notes given by the variety. It is a wine without wood, what in mouth gives us an explosion of fruit and spices and too much freshness. It is very easy to drink. A young wine to enjoy at a meal or meeting with friends and for sure it will help to generate the best moments.

Calius Crianza
DO Valle de Güimar
Only the best grapes planted in this appellation are part of this aging wine. The varieties that conform it are also native: Vijariego Negro, Castellana, Tintilla and Vidueños. Once the wine is made, it rests for at least one year in French and American oak barrels and one year in the bottle, which provides the characteristics expected to be considered for a high-end wine.
I have been captivated by her notes of plum, cinnamon and chocolate. In the mouth, it is of great body with a soft character, although unctuous and with a long and persistent end. An ideal wine to accompany a table of strong hard cheeses, sausages and Iberico or Serrano hams.


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